Primers

A section for posing questions to 44man AKA Jim Miner. The wit and wisdom of Mr. Miner.
44man
Posts: 405
Joined: 06 Feb 2015, 13:27

Primers

Postby 44man » 13 Jul 2017, 09:25

How many test primers in all guns? It would be a good topic and I want to see what everyone says, not what a book says.

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Mountain dewd
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Re: Primers

Postby Mountain dewd » 13 Jul 2017, 16:41

I have ZERO experience with primers. I am sure it has some impact on powder ignition, but I bought 10,000 primers for next to nothing. Assorted rifle and pistol primers, magnum and standard. The magnums stay in rifle cases, but I have not ever had an issue with how my reloads shoot.
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44man
Posts: 405
Joined: 06 Feb 2015, 13:27

Re: Primers

Postby 44man » 14 Jul 2017, 07:39

You might call me a primer nut. I test everything in all calibers, even tried standard LP in the .500 and .475 but found a Fed 155 is more accurate.
I use a Fed 150 match in the 45-70 BPCR and a 155 in my 45-70 revolver. All guns use 296 except the 45-70 BFR where I use 4759. My .44 mag uses a Fed 150 only.
A .454 is best with brass that uses a LP 155, the SR is just wrong.
The .45 ACP revolver comes to life with a SP primer. LP is too much and moves bullets out too soon.
I have done so much testing that if you bring .44 ammo for me to shoot, I will tell you what primer you used.
Powder choice, lube for cast, case tension, crimp all are important but maybe a primer is the most important. I look for a lot of heat with less pressure from a primer. A rifle or single shot has bullets held back more so it is not as important, yet accuracy can still change.
The worst was working the .454 from starting book loads with a SR mag of any brand. They at times drove the bullet into the bore with all the powder packed behind it. No ignition. Only max worked. I cut primer pockets for a LP mag and all loads fired, then found cut down .460 brass best. No rifle primers, not ever. Even a .500 S&W does not need a LR primer.
Next is mainspring or hammer spring, primers need a certain impact so never weaken a mainspring. Yes, even Fed needs it.
Some revolver brass is cut for a LR, like the .475, parent case is a 45-70 but research to powder companies about it, I was told in no uncertain terms--NEVER a LR primer.
Next, never use a LR primer in a LP case, they don't fit and can slam fire. A big concern with some .500 S&W brass. It was made for both and you must know, LR cases are marked. But you don't need them.
It has been a great learning experience. Back in my IHMSA days I found the correct primer for the .44 and even though I shot Hornady bullets with 296, I got many 3/4" groups at 200 meters. Fed 150. CCI 300 OK too. NOT WW but the .45 Colt with 296 can use a WW but not a mag. WW is not a full mag, kind of between.
Case size determines the primer you need.

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johniv
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Location: WV

Re: Primers

Postby johniv » 14 Jul 2017, 16:37

Good info Jim. I load most for defensive practice, at relatively close range, so primer selection is less important to my needs, as far as accuracy goes BUT this is good info for any loading since it effects reliability as well as long range accuracy. Thanks.
John

44man
Posts: 405
Joined: 06 Feb 2015, 13:27

Re: Primers

Postby 44man » 15 Jul 2017, 07:42

For defense, reliability is needed and that is where a good hammer spring comes in.
In about 39 years I have used a 150 in the .44 and never seen unburned powder. I use a lot of case tension and hard bullets but many use soft lead that gets sized by the brass, use the Lyman "M" expander or crimp so hard tension is shot.
I got unburned powder in the 45-70 with 3031, barrel too short on the BFR, 10". However it was very accurate but also slow as molasses. Even a LR primer did not burn all of 3031. Darn fun to shoot though.
I have had many S&W revolvers in my shop that would not fire DA, I found the strain screws filed off, never had enough replacements so I would drill the screws for a pin. The spring must be tight to the frame.
Too many bought lighter spring sets that can fail. A lighter rebound spring is best as long as it sets the trigger. Guys also cut the rebound spring so the trigger would not reset.
In all these years, springs have been the most problems. Ruger hammer springs take a set and accuracy goes south. The Rem 870 and 1100 magazine springs fail to feed after a while. I bought Wolfe springs by the dozen.
The Ruger Mark pistol magazine springs fail if left loaded and I never found replacements so I just stretched them. Even leaving 5 shells in them is no good.
S&W cylinder stop springs can be too weak. Shoot and the cylinder unlocks, turns backwards, gun can double if a live round is in place or you get a click the next pull.
Hammers bounce back far from flash hole pressure on the primer and firing pin, even a SA can reach almost full cock but geometry is different. I have cases from a S&W with double strikes on primers and even on the case heads. If the cylinder turns far enough, it is no good. There were no better springs then so I added a lock tumbler spring inside the cylinder stop spring. Life has been good and I can make a colt SA with a trigger pull you can't believe without hitting the half cock notch. Need to know, just ask.
Just maybe I know more then the guys in the factories that repair revolvers. S&W said I was wrong but now offer a better spring for the cylinder stop.
I will not get into Freedom guns here. I am afraid to hurt feelings. Just know I will never own one. QC is sad. Repairs cost you. I can fix though, but not the barrels.


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